Posted 11 January 2016 - 07:17 PM
Posted 11 January 2016 - 09:06 PM
Saw some "snare" wire at Canadian Tire on the weekend, one was 22 gauge and one was 20. Shouldn't even be allowed to sell 22 gauge IMO, just to light. That being said you can buy crappy 20 gauge but at least it is a supposed to be stronger
Don't bite the hand that feeds you
Posted 12 January 2016 - 06:57 AM
kinks and cold weather bad combination ,always give em a little tree pull gives them a nice round circle to catch and takes out the kinks.
Posted 15 January 2016 - 11:20 PM
The regulations under the Wildlife Act state:
10 (1) No person shall set any snare for snowshoe hare made of material other than wire commonly known as rabbit wire, not lighter than 20 gauge.
(2) No person shall use a body gripping trap or leg hold trap to take, hunt or kill or attempt to take, hunt or kill snowshoe hare.
So, I leave it up to the members of this site to determine what is "material other than wire commonly known as rabbit wire". bit I would say picture frame wire is not commonly know as rabbit wire.
I do not think this made it to the Handbook. The Handbook does specify what is needed for squirrel and weasel.
Another poorly worded section of the regulations.
If a person used a stronger more humanly snare wire, with less breakage and explained it to his Dnr CO that with good discretion they would be allowed. As long as snares were made the correct size and not large enough to catch a dog. Years ago I came across snares made of fine steel, but way to large for rabbit like 4x4 in. loop, the guy was Asian attending to COGS and didn't have a clue on setting snares properly. Since I was running beagles in the area, I tripped them.
Posted 12 January 2017 - 01:14 AM
You are right, snare wire is not picture and the person who suggested it should know better being a trapper and close to DNR.
Posted 12 January 2017 - 06:52 PM
When I snare the barrens I always run the risk of great horned owls; they can sometimes break snares and leave little track
Posted 28 January 2017 - 01:28 PM
Most often in my experience it's the issue of the anchor point not having enough give. The more it works like a fishing rod, the better. 5/8 inch alder/willow/etc. is ideal IMO
Another trick to minimize how much flight the rabbit has, is to put a few branches over the point where they run through - like 10" high, give or take. Chances are good that they'll jump around and get hung up over them, and then will not be able to get the proper footing to put up a good fight.
Often we do this anyway to force their heads down into the snare - the trick here is to use something sturdy enough that it will bear their weight and hold them up. This also keeps them from freezing to the ground, and probably kills them a lot faster. It basically has a spring-trap effect (it hangs the rabbit) without having to go to all the trouble of setting up a spring trap.
Some sort of tip-up/spring type snare set is your best bet, but they take much longer to set than a standard snare. I'm also not sure if they are legal.
Posted 28 January 2017 - 01:36 PM
All I ever used was regular old brass snare wire growing up...
Just always made sure to get the kinks out of it..
- Browning BLR PG, .300wsm
- Savage Model 111, .270win
- Savage Model 11, .243
- My trusty 1958 Winchester model 12, 12ga
- Limbsaver dz30, Easton FMJ and a muzzy
Posted 28 January 2017 - 03:40 PM
As we have a growing Marten population it's soon going to be time to introduce the rabbit snare that's desiged to let martin go. Quite if bit if work has been done on this in Newfoundland.
Posted 13 February 2017 - 08:16 PM
each time i install snares, i always make sure that nobody can't find my snares. Also, i never take the small size of wire. I know that the more you bend it on both sides, the weaker it gets and it breaks in 2. Then the rabit is gone frr but will die somewhere else. I prefer to have a frozen rabit than a free rabit dieing one.
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