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#1 Reppart

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Posted 17 October 2016 - 08:10 PM

I was thinking about doing some bear hunting as there seems to be many around this year. Before taking one I was curious what people generally do with the hides. I don't want to waste perfectly good fur just for the fun of killing a bear. I already have a spot to get the meat processed. I am a fur harvester, but do not have the proper tools to take on processing a bear skin. Any information would be much appreciated, thanks in advance.


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#2 bea

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Posted 18 October 2016 - 06:59 AM

I give mine to Marcus on this site.....he does them up and sends them off to auction....for me, its just another way to use another part of the bruins I am lucky enough to take, as opposed to throwing it away.....I dont want any more rugs or mounts....so it works for me


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every man will die...but not every man will have lived...http://www.beas-outdoor-adventures.com/index.html

#3 Markus

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Posted 18 October 2016 - 08:06 PM

And I appreciate it.  They are a big job for what we get out of them, but it's nice to utilize them. I hate seeing them wasted too.


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#4 Benelliblaster

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 11:59 AM

how much is a hide worth? ive been contemplating selling my bear head or the hide to put towards a new 22 mag


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#5 superslickie

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 06:46 PM

I know it's late but a friend of mine wants a bear hide so he can try tanning it
Anyone have one to donate
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can i go hunting yet??

#6 KEVIN

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 10:22 PM

Couple of years ago, a fellow I met at Withrows said he knew a taxidermist that was buying bear hides(for rugs),  asked if I was interested in selling him my bear hide if I got one...said he'd pay me 100.00 for any size....but he'd double that for a BIG one.

Never got a name, and I never went after for bears any more. 


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If you take your kids hunting,.....You won't have to go hunting for your kids.....KS/85

#7 Markus

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 10:45 PM

I ship a lot of bear hides to auction.  An incomplete bear (missing feet/claws) can go for $6-$40 at auction.  I wont even put the work into one of those anymore.  A complete bear can go from $20-200.....depending on quality.  Our early fall bears are generally not prime furs like the spring hunted ones coming out of NB and generally go for a lot less.  The work involved in fleshing/stretching/drying a hide is a lot more difficult then most think.  I appreciate my friends donating their bear hides to me to prep and ship and for the most part, I skin most of them for them.  I'll never pay for one though...it's just not a risk i'll take.  As a thank you, I do up the skull for them.


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#8 KEVIN

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 06:26 AM

Kinda wish I'd have kept my skulls now after seeing the ones bought in to be scored @ the Big Game Society's booth at the RV Show. .....annnnd ESP after seeing the pics of Hell Bear collection...pretty awesome job Markus and Tim !!


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If you take your kids hunting,.....You won't have to go hunting for your kids.....KS/85

#9 scotiangunlover

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 02:26 PM

is there a special way to dress the bear if you are planning on getting a rug made and keeping the hide?


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#10 beaverhunter

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 06:04 PM

is there a special way to dress the bear if you are planning on getting a rug made and keeping the hide?

 

Yes.


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mqdefault.jpgab072989328f3b31f3b5865afa43dd74.jpg

I remember watching bambi for the first time when I was little and my favourite part
was when they killed bambi's mother because I knew somwhere the hunters
family was eating good that night never understood why they made him out to be the
bad guy.

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but We are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works.

Gotta Love The Nova Scotia Federation of Anti Hunters

#11 rasorbackq

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 02:37 PM

How to skin a bear for a taxidermy rug.

 

 After the shot or arrow release when the bear is down. The proper handling of your trophy starts NOW.  What you do and how you handle the harvest will greatly effect the outcome of quality of meat and taxidermy product.

 

 Immediately after you recover your bear the animal must be gutted so the interior of the animal can cool.  As soon as the bear has died this is when bacteria starts to form that will ruin the meat and cause hair to slip.    Cooling of the hide and carcass must be done ASAP.  I will not go into how to gut a bear but one very important part is the cut should be centered between the vent and center of the chest. It should also be straight. 

 

For a rug

 

 This is what I like to do.

 

 Lay bear on its back with a hand, brush hair in a normal direction from throat to knife incision from gutting. Now run a finger in straight line from the knife incision towards the throat and stop centered between the hinge point of the lower jaw. This will leave a line in the fur. If your line in the fur is not correct just rebrush and try again.  Your initial cut will extend from the vent and stop centered on the throat even with the hinge point of the lower jaw.

 

 Rear legs

 

 Start at the ankle and make a line again with your finger from the ankle to the vent. Should be straight and run centered on the back of the leg. There is a line to follow as best you can. It’s where the long hair meets the short hair.

 

 Pads

For a rug the pads on the paws are not required. Cut around the pad and skin down to the last knuckle removing all the finger bones.  Claws should remain attached to the hide. The skin on the paw should be removed like a doctor removes a latex glove peeled back inside out. After the claws are cut reinvert to normal. You may be surprised as how similar a skinned bear paw resembles a human hand. Fingers bones can be cut from the hand to assist with the skinning. Easiest to skin a finger on the outside edge and then do the other outside. Just makes a little more room to work

 

 Front legs.

 If the front legs are skinned correctly this is where you can make up square footage on a pelt.   This may be difficult to understand. If you pull the arm straight and cut from the wrist  straight to the center line belly cut  the hide will form a flap of skin after its has been skinned that extends outwards between the bears thumb and head in the armpit area. After the bear is dried this flap is just cut off during the shaping process.  If you can get the cut to form a flap of skin between the front leg and the rear leg in the armpit area, this can be sewed to the arm from the armpit to the elbow area increasing the look and size of your trophy. You want the lack of armpit hair  to end up as a flap between the front and back leggs

 

Ok how to do this. Again draw a line with your finger from the wrist to the center belly cut line. Cut from wrist to the elbow area and stop.  Now redraw a line from your elbow cut towards the lower jaw and bisect about 4”-12” above the imaginary straight line depending on the size of bear. For a 200 lb bear about 6-8 ” make a good flap.  Make sure that both upward angle cuts on the front legs are even and cross the center line belly cut at the same spot.. Now if can visualize this, the large flap will fold down towards the armpit located between the front and rear legs. 

 

Head

 Cut as close to the skull as you can especially in the eye and ear area.

 

 If you don’t feel comfortable to skin the paws and head just cut off at the wrist and base of skull.  But here is where the bacteria problem lies.  When the hide is frozen with the skull inside (normally In a large ball of fur) the skull is the last to freeze . It may be 2 or 3 days before its frozen.  The bacteria is still growing until its frozen. After the hide is removed from the freezer the ears will thaw before the head can be skinned normally about 1-2 days.  Now the bacteria is working on the ear hair and will almost always slip( bald spot). The eye area is also very bad for slippage.  So if you don’t skin the head DO NOT ball up and drop in a garbage bag and freeze.  Lay it out so it’s flat and thin as possible so thaw time is ASAP. I like to place fur side in so the leather will not be insulated by the fur as to ensure a quick thaw.

 

 A few pointers. 

 

If you plan to store in a freezer for a long period of time, store fur side out to slow down freezer burn. Freezer burn is the removal of moisture . If it stays there too long just throw it out as it will almost be mummified. And will not be able to be rehydrated.  Most of my bear hides never see the freezer. They go from hide prep to salting into tanning solution.  This way the freeze thaw bacteria doesn’t get a chance.

 

If you do not flesh your hide DO NOT SALT IT. Freeze or cool and get it to a taxidermist.

 

Where hunters loose out of bear rug size is if the cuts are not straight and centered as the taxidermist will trim the hide after it’s tanned and dry to form a symmetrical shape on both sides.  A 4” cut off of center line belly cut gets an 8” narrower hide between the front and rear legs.

 

 

 

So to recap……

 

Remove the hide ASAP and cool.

Do not freeze in a ball

Remember YOUR prep will result in a better mount.

 

 

Let me know if there are any questions.


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 Thanks to all on this site who assisted with my taxidermy season . I hope I am even busier next season and can continue to produce even better mounts.


#12 beaverhunter

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 10:49 AM

Always thought this was a good video, helped me do my bear for a rug after only ever having to gut deer.

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=wLit4KrL2hU


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mqdefault.jpgab072989328f3b31f3b5865afa43dd74.jpg

I remember watching bambi for the first time when I was little and my favourite part
was when they killed bambi's mother because I knew somwhere the hunters
family was eating good that night never understood why they made him out to be the
bad guy.

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but We are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works.

Gotta Love The Nova Scotia Federation of Anti Hunters

#13 Clearcut

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Posted 21 June 2017 - 05:30 AM

Razorbackq is your tanning process waterproof? I'm looking to get a couple small beaver hides done to make stuffers .
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#14 rasorbackq

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Posted 21 June 2017 - 05:46 AM

Not sure what a stuffer is but no  tanning is water proof. As soon as the any leather gets wet it hydrates it and turns very soft .  When it drys again will be rock hard and out of shape.

  If its wet where air can't circulate then it  will get moldy and rot.


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 Thanks to all on this site who assisted with my taxidermy season . I hope I am even busier next season and can continue to produce even better mounts.


#15 Clearcut

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Posted 21 June 2017 - 08:15 PM

Stuffers u saw were wild geese used as decoys stuffed
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#16 rasorbackq

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Posted 21 June 2017 - 08:29 PM

 Ok my my buddy in Ottawa has them. Looked really  bad as taxidermy but may work well seeing them at 500 ' up.

 He tells me he gets  a couple years out of them.

  $50 ea in Ottawa.


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 Thanks to all on this site who assisted with my taxidermy season . I hope I am even busier next season and can continue to produce even better mounts.


#17 Clearcut

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Posted 21 June 2017 - 08:37 PM

Some here have lots
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#18 rasorbackq

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 06:40 AM

So make were you going to do with the small beavers hides . Beaver decoys??


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 Thanks to all on this site who assisted with my taxidermy season . I hope I am even busier next season and can continue to produce even better mounts.


#19 Clearcut

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 09:20 AM

Can you order the form to pull hide over ?
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#20 Clearcut

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 09:22 AM

I think they would be good when calling coyotes.
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